The beginning
Belgrade, Serbia. What to say? I’ve been in the city for almost a month now, having arrived on January 9th just before the Orthodox New Year. I’m finally feeling settled in with a much better sense of where I am, what I’m doing, who’s who at work among the 200 or so staff, and what projects and activities we’re working on at the OSCE. I’m in the democratization department which encompasses a number of offices, such as refugee protection, minority rights, combating trafficking in persons etc. I’m working mostly on minority and "equal opportunity" issues at the moment. I’m excited to be working on the projects and have already tagged along to five meetings in two different cities to help get a better sense of the issues. The staff comes from many different countries, including Serbia and other Balkan countries. Everyone I’ve met has been quite friendly and I’m being well looked after. There are a few young people and previous interns that I hang out with, as well as a couple of great interns from the U.S. embassy that I’ve befriended and with whom I explore the city and culture.
Impressions of first few weeks
My feelings in general about being here: This is what I love – that does not mean it is always jolly to be off on ones own in a new culture, unfamiliar country, where new ambiguities must be navigated. But learning is the thing. I must learn what I can from people and about their worldview. I ask lots of questions and then I listen. Maybe then I’ll understand better who I am and who we are in this world, as our lives are invariably interconnected whether we always realize it or not. For instance, this is one country where Clinton doesn’t achieve popularity status, as his administration pressed for the NATO bombings in 1999. As for who is right and who is wrong in the recent conflicts in the region, the truth varies depending on who you are and what you’ve experienced. All I know is that too many have suffered and still do. Everyday, when I take the trolleybus to work, I stare out the window as we pass four former government and media buildings now hollowed out like black skeletons, half crumbling down from the NATO bombings in ’99.
The people
The people here are by and large amazingly friendly! Oddly enough, so many people speak English. I didn’t realize so many learned English from an early age in school. I am picking up as many Serbian phrases and as much grammar as I can…loving that. Even more surprising, I 
don’t think I’ve met one Serbian yet who doesn’t know where Montana is located. They don’t just know that it is a state in the U.S. - they know where it is on the map. Even the somewhat tipsy fellas that I encountered on the street yesterday can place Montana. They study America in detail in their schooling, I’m told. Funny - I’m guessing most Americans can place Serbia on a map about as well as they can pin the tail on a donkey while blindfolded.
The city
Belgrade - the population of this city (2.5 million) is twice the population of Montana. How’s that for perspective. We’re not in Kansas [Montana] any more Toto [Betsy the cow]. And, well, one wouldn’t necessarily call it a beautiful city. Not charming like Vilnius old town, unless you call big, mostly dull gray/brown buildings charming. But this city has an atmosphere that I can only describe as a sort of spunk and vibrancy. (it is also known to have one of the best party scenes in Europe...woo hoo! ;). And there is some lovely architecture all the same. I am really enjoying living here and taking everything in.
Where I’m living
I’m living in the center in the little flat of a previous OSCE intern. Great location - I can walk pretty much everywhere I need to, and I hop on a trolleybus to and from work daily. And, heck, I love European cafes – much better than stoic, dull, everywhere-the-same coffee shops in the U.S. Just two blocks from my flat is Kneza Mihailova, a pedestrian street/walkway lined with shops, cafes, and people who are always sauntering along the street. I love that – families, young people, old people just strolling about on the weekends. And, I have to admit, I love the vendor people who sell popcorn along the length of it. Kalemegdan Citidel (fortress) sits at one end of the lane and is a bastion of history, which overlooks where the Sava and Danube rivers converge. It’s really rather impressive.
Recent events in Serbia
It is a very interesting time to be in Serbia. Recently, a parliamentary election took place and it is still the “hot topic.” The election was closely watched by the international community. The ultra-nationalist radical party was vying for a strong turnout in order to keep the democratic parties from forming a majority coalition in parliament. In the eyes of the western observers, institutions, and organizations, the platform of the democratic parties is much more appealing – more pro-western and reform oriented. Ultimately, the radical party did win a majority of the votes, but not enough to keep the democratic parties from forming a governing coalition if they can come to some agreement in March. Unfortunately, there is relevant concern that the potential coalition parties will not 
compromise on some hard-line stances so as to form the government. This situation would be unfortunate. And the status of Kosovo remains a touchy issue; no party accepts the idea of this province's independence or wants to be blamed for losing Kosovo. Kosovo is a province of Serbia that has been administered by the UN since the end of the 1990s and NATO intervention after Milosvic initiated a campaign of ethnic cleansing of the province's majority Albanian population that had been demanding independence. However, Ahtisaari, the UN representative who has been presiding over considerations of Kosovo's future status, just delivered his final proposal on Friday to the leaders. So, it shall be interesting to find out more about the proposal and what happens next!
All this election and Kosovo talk may sound rather dull or confusing to some of you, but this is a rather important period for Serbia. So, let me help locate Serbia in your “recent events memory.” History-in-a-box 101 (just add water):
* Following world war two, Tito established socialist Yugoslavia as a federal state comprised of six Balkan republics and two autonomous regions. Belgrade was the center of power.
* After Tito’s death in 1980, economic conditions in Yugoslavia deteriorated drastically and dissatisfaction increased among the republics. During this period, Slobodon Milsovic emerged as a political force and president in 1989. He went on to abolish Kosovo’s autonomous status (region in southern Serbia) to the chagrin of the large Albanian ethnic majority that desired complete independence from Serbia. Concurrently, Milosevic espoused greater Serbian domination and touted nationalist sentiment of a “Greater Serbia,” which caused alarm among the other Yugoslav republics.
* War broke in Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina as they seceded from the federation with Serbia. With Serb minorities in these countries, Milosevic ordered troops in to fight for “Greater Serbia.” A peace agreement came into force in 1995, but Yugoslavia now consisted only of Serbia and Montenegro.
* The tension in Kosovo and calls by majority Albanian population for independence increased in the face of state repression. In 1998 Milosevic ordered forces into Kosovo to crush the separatists. Civil war erupted and many Kosovo Albanians were killed and hundreds of thousands fled as refugees. At the same time, the Kosovo Serb population also faced brutal reprisals. The West took the side of the Kosovo Albanians and NATO intervened, carrying out air strikes against Serbia and forcing Milosevic to pull out.
* Mass demonstrations in Belgrade led to Milosevic’s downfall in 2000. He was arrested and turned over to the United Nations International Criminal Tribunal to face charges of war crimes and genocide in Bosnia and Kosovo. In 2001, Zoran Djindjic, an adamant reformer, took the helm upon the approval of a new government, but he was assassinated in 2003. Elections were held in 2003 and 2004 for new government.
* Last year, while still under trial in the Hague and before a verdict could be handed down, Milosevic passed away. As for Kosovo, the region has been under UN administered governance and the protection of some 16,000 NATO troops. This past week, the parliamentary election took place and was closely watched by the international community (it was deemed free and fair), as the outcome determines the future direction of the country. Also, everyone has been waiting expectantly for the decision on Kosovo’s final status to be handed down. The proposal has been submitted to the leaders of Serbia and Kosovo, and more details will be forthcoming soon... Serbia may be granted some form of independence or sovereignty, which the majority of Serbians would not accept so well.
That’s just a nuts and bolts version really. What is Serbia like today? I’m still deciphering this. In terms of its economy, conditions are not so good with the unemployment rate of around 25-28 percent as one indication (compared to a healthy 4 or 5% in the U.S., I believe). There is significant poverty, particularly in rural areas. The average salary in the country is around $250/month. And, well, reform in general is not an over-night process. Other issues remain outstanding – whether Serbia will be granted an agreement on European Union accession talks, particularly as the government has failed to hand over to 1991-1995 war crimes suspects to the International Criminal Tribunal. So…lots to pay attention to here.
Until next update...
Hope you are all well, and I would love to hear from any and everyone!
